Quick note before we start:
- I visited these places. I booked tours, spilled wine, and asked too many questions.
- I’ll name real bottles and real stops. No fluff.
Why Spain grabbed me by the glass
I wanted bold reds, bright whites, and some bubbles that don’t break the bank. Spain gave me all that, plus snacks. Tapas help, by the way. I went by train, bus, and a very small rental car that hated hills. I speak basic Spanish. That helped with bookings and tasting rooms, but I still pointed a lot.
You know what? I thought Rioja would be my favorite. I was wrong. Well, kind of. Let me explain. For a photo-heavy recap of the journey, you can browse my illustrated diary on TastingEurope.
Rioja: oak, history, and a hop between doors
Haro is easy. The “Station” wineries sit near each other, so you can walk.
- López de Heredia: I toured the old cellars and smelled wet stone and old wood. We tasted Viña Tondonia Reserva 2011. It was silky, a little nutty, and still fresh. The label looks vintage because it is.
- Muga: I liked Prado Enea Gran Reserva. Big cherry. Gentle spice. Staff smiled even when I asked about the barrels… twice.
- CVNE (Cune): Imperial Reserva poured smooth and calm. Great balance.
Want to geek out on the winery’s own specs? López de Heredia keeps detailed tech sheets—take a peek at one here.
What I loved:
- Tapas in Logroño on Calle Laurel. Order a mushroom skewer with a glass of crianza. Thank me later.
- You can see three wineries in a day without driving far.
What bugged me:
- Weekends get packed. Book. Some reds felt very oaky for me on hot days.
Ribera del Duero: steak wine under a castle
Different river, different mood. Bigger shoulders on these reds.
- Pago de Carraovejas: The terrace faces Peñafiel Castle. I had the 2020 Crianza with a hunk of lamb later. Tannins hugged my gums, but in a kind way.
- Vega Sicilia: I didn’t get a tour. It’s hard to snag. I tasted Valbuena 5º 2017 by the glass at a bar in Valladolid. Deep, dark fruit. Long finish. Long price.
- Pesquera Crianza: Good value. Warm, plummy, and friendly with grilled meat.
What I loved:
- If you like bold tempranillo, this is your place.
What bugged me:
- Summer heat hits hard. Midday wine plus sun? Pace yourself. Spit sometimes. Really.
Priorat (and neighbor Montsant): slate, views, and serious bottles
The road winds. My little car sighed the whole way. Worth it.
- Álvaro Palacios: I tasted Finca Dofí. Dark cherry. Mineral snap from the slate (locals call it llicorella). Powerful, but not heavy.
- Clos Mogador: Structured and layered. Not cheap, but it felt special.
- Montsant (next door): Acústic Celler’s red gave me ripe fruit with a softer touch. Easier on the wallet.
What I loved:
- The land tells the story. You can feel the rock in the glass. Wild herbs in the air, too.
What bugged me:
- Prices climb fast. The roads are no joke. If you get carsick, bring ginger.
Penedès: bubble town with a train stop
I used the train from Barcelona to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. Simple.
- Gramona: I tried III Lustros. Long time on the lees, rich and toasty, but still bright.
- Recaredo: Bone-dry, fine bubbles, calm staff who know their stuff.
- Raventós i Blanc: De Nit rosé looked cute, tasted serious. Peach, chalk, a little salt note.
What I loved:
- Bubbles with jamón. Magic.
- Easy day trip. English tours are common.
What bugged me:
- Some tasting rooms felt rushed on Saturdays. Early slots were calmer.
Rías Baixas: albariño by the sea
Galicia feels like green Ireland had a summer fling with Spain. It rains more. Bring a jacket.
- Pazo de Señorans: Clean, citrusy albariño with a pear note. Yum with clams.
- Mar de Frades: The blue bottle changes with temperature. Fun trick, crisp wine.
What I loved:
- Pair albariño with pulpo a la gallega (octopus) or razor clams. Bright acid, happy palate.
What bugged me:
- Rain. Sometimes tours move indoors, which is fine, but I wanted the vines.
Bierzo: the quiet hit
I didn’t expect to love it. I did.
- Descendientes de J. Palacios Pétalos: Floral, light on its feet, but has grip. Cherries and violets.
- Godello (white) from the area: Rounder than albariño. Apple and a touch of almond.
What I loved:
- Prices are kind. The town vibe is slow and kind too.
What bugged me:
- Not many tours in English on weekdays. A quick email ahead helps.
Jerez and Sanlúcar: the sherry chapter
This part blew my mind. Sherry isn’t just sweet. Most of it is dry. Super dry.
- Valdespino Inocente Fino: Salty, savory, and clean. I ate olives and didn’t speak for two minutes. That good.
- La Gitana Manzanilla (Sanlúcar): Even more sea air. Try it with fried shrimp.
- Bodegas Tradición: Oloroso VOS was nuts, fig, and leather. Also, they have art on the walls. A nice surprise.
What I loved:
- The solera system is wild but simple when you see it. Old barrels, young wine, blended over time. Fresh, yet deep.
What bugged me:
- Styles can confuse people. Ask for a quick guide: fino/manzanilla (pale, salty), amontillado (nutty), oloroso (rich), PX (sweet dessert).
Basque Coast: txakoli with ocean views
Getaria sits on the hill above the water. Vines hang like clothes on a line.
- Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina: Light, zippy, a tiny spritz. They pour it from high to wake it up. It’s fun.
- Ameztoi Rubentis (rosé): Dry and fresh. I took a bottle to a pintxo crawl in San Sebastián. Perfect.
What I loved:
- Anchovies, cider, txakoli. A sharp, salty trio.
What bugged me:
- If you like full reds, this will feel thin. It’s a mood wine. Hot day? Yes. Cold night? Maybe not.
Jumilla, Yecla, Alicante: sun, grill, monastrell
These reds are ripe and friendly.
- Juan Gil Silver Label (Jumilla): Dark fruit, smooth tannin, sweet spice. Tuesday night pizza wine.
- Casa Castillo (Jumilla): A bit more shape. Great with BBQ ribs.
What I loved:
- Value. Big flavors for less cash.
What bugged me:
- On very hot days, these can taste heavy. Chill the bottle a touch.
Toro, Rueda, and La Mancha: strong reds and porch whites
- Toro: Numanthia hits hard. Dense, serious. Great with steak. I also liked a humbler Tinta de Toro with a burger. Same grape as tempranillo, more muscle.
- Rueda: Verdejo is bright and green, with lime zest. I drank one at a gas station café with a tortilla slice. Not fancy. Still good.
- La Mancha: Huge region. Volver Tempranillo gave me ripe fruit and a clean finish for not much money.
What I loved:
- Easy to find by the glass all over central Spain.
What bugged me:
- Less romance in the scenery off the highway. But hey, wine’s tasty.
Fast picks by mood
- Steak night: Ribera del Duero or Toro.
- Tapas crawl: Rioja crianza or a manzanilla sherry.
- Beach picnic: Albariño or txakoli.
- Celebration: Gramona or Recaredo bubbles.
- Cozy pasta: Montsant or a softer Rioja reserva.
- BBQ ribs: Jumilla monastrell.
Tips I wish I had day one
- Book tours. Many places close for lunch or on Sundays.
- For a country-wide directory of vineyards and food experiences, check out TastingEurope before you plan your route.
- Bring a light sweater for cellars. They’re cool.
- Learn a few words: “Cata” (tasting), “seco” (dry), “dulce” (sweet).
- Use a spittoon. You taste more and last longer.
- If you drive, take it slow. Some roads are tight and twisty.
- Cash